12.19.2009

Cranberry Pomegranate Sauce

We moved to Chicago in October and have been busy getting to know our new city and enjoying our new CSA winter share (finally!). But now it's time to get back to business...

Ever since we received two packages of perfectly red, perfectly ripe fresh cranberries in our CSA box, I have been looking for recipes that treat them as more than just filler for the Thanksgiving meal. I have to say that it hasn't been a particularly fruitful search. However, this recipe for Cranberry Pomegranate Sauce from Sunset magazine does make it part of the way to my goal. I've made it a few times now, and find it to be a delightful side for the farm fresh pork chops we've also been getting from our CSA.

Aside from the gorgeous deep cranberry color, made even more beautiful by the pomegranate seed "jewels" studding it, I find the sauce to be delightfully tart. The little fresh bursts of the pomegranate seeds are irresistible, and the thyme stands out in a way you wouldn't expect, given the bold flavors of the other ingredients. If you can't find pomegranate molasses, try using just standard molasses. The finished product is sweeter and has a definite molasses flavor, but is still quite good.

Find the recipe for Cranberry Pomegranate Sauce (from Sunset magazine) here

9.10.2009

Chicken and Corn Summer Chowder

This Chicken and Corn Summer Chowder is indulgent for sure - not only is it packed with richness (one word: bacon, followed by two words: heavy cream), it is not exactly your quick Tuesday night standby. But, it's good to splurge a little sometimes, and this soup is truly worth it. How do I know? Not only have I been waiting all year to make it again, once I did, coworkers literally followed their noses to my lunch.

I love how this soup not only utilizes fresh, ripe corn and tomatoes, but also capitalizes on garnish to balance out the richness of the cream. If the heavy cream scares you (don't let it), use just the minimum called for in the recipe - it will still be savory good. Another shortcut? Buy a rotisserie chicken in a pinch (but roast breasts on the bone if you have time).

8.31.2009

Excursion: Short's Brewing Company

Recently, Kevin and I were lucky enough to spend a couple of hours at Short's Brewing Company in Bellaire, Michigan. Having heard nothing but good things about Short's (several of our friends practically swoon at the mere mention of the name), it would be fair to say that we had high expectations going in. Fortunately for us, though, I think we can confidently assert that Short's delivered on not one, but two (and actually probably three) fronts.

Call me a city-girl and a snob, but while I may have had high expectations regarding the beer, I wasn't expecting a brewery in tiny Bellaire to offer such a level of, well...sophistication. What struck me first upon entering was not the substantial list of unique and innovative craft brews, but rather the hip, artsy interior - warm with vintage charm and packed with character. The exposed brick walls are covered with local art, the stools are vintage vinyl, and there is wood everywhere - on the floors, the tables, and the absolutely gorgeous bar. Even the mugs for Short's mug club are made for them by a local artist - Love it!

Adding to the cool decor is the menu - innovative sandwiches and pizzas, along with lots of homemade goodies. Kevin and I shared a platter of pita with homemade hummus, feta spread, roasted garlic, and olives and also pretzels with mustard. Both were so delicious that we actually managed to ruin our dinner.

Of course, I can't forget the most important part - the beer! We love to share samplers, and this occasion was no exception, so we ordered a flight of five beers (quoted portions are Short's descriptions):

Nicie Spicie - "A Northern Michigan spiced wheat ale. Flavored with lemon and orange zest, three types of ground peppercorns, and coriander this balanced golden ale is crisp, refreshing, and elegant." Kevin found this one to be a little much in terms of spice (he called it pepper³), but it reminded me of bratwurst - in a good way! A very, very interesting beer with lots of pepper and coriander flavor.

The Soft Parade - "A blend of toasted rye flakes and malted barley fermented with 200 pounds of pureed strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries resulting in a sweet fruity delicacy. Intoxicatingly refreshing brewed special for those who enjoy their wine." Neither Kevin nor I are generally big fans of fruit beer, but we have to give this one points for being extremely well-balanced and fruity without being sweet or overwhelmed by fruit. Despite the 200 pounds of berries, the fruit was a fresh flavor that crept up in the background of this pleasant brew.

Pontius Road Pilsner - "High quality Wisconsin grown malted barley, blended with a small amount of flaked maize, produces a wort that carries a distinct flavor. Balanced in the kettle by handfuls of Perle hops, and doses of Santium hops provide flavor and a pleasant aroma." Kevin called this one an enlightened Pilsner, and I have to agree. They aren't joking about that distinct flavor and pleasant aroma, either. There are plenty of boring Pilsners out there, but this isn't one of them. I am currently haunted by this beer and mourning the fact that it isn't available at my local grocer!

Stellar Ale - "Brewed exclusively for Trattoria Stella of Traverse City, this beer is defined as a pale ale, but hefty doses of Amarillo hops make it more comparable to an IPA. Toasted caramel malts provide the sweet flavor that supports the intense citrus bitterness of the hops." I found this beer to be a bit over the bitter edge for me, but Kevin ranked it second overall in our tasting. It has strong floral notes, and will appeal to hard core IPA fans.

Hangin' Frank - "A toasted pale ale brewed exclusively with Simcoe hops. Light amber color, a medium body and plenty of earthy, citrus hoppiness." Despite its simple description, this beer was the clear standout of the afternoon (and the evening - we took a growler home!). It has the perfect level of hoppiness and beautiful caramel undertones. This is a good all around beer, too, that will satisfy many tastes and preferences.

Short's beer is available in retail stores all over Michigan, but if you can, a visit to the Pub is definitely the way to go.

8.26.2009

Wine of the Week: Florent de Brie 2008 Rosé d'Anjou

As it is the end of August, I promise that this will be the last Rosé... But, I've saved the best for last! This has been my hands-down favorite this summer, warranting multiple purchases over the course of the season.

Like many of the other rosés I have tried this year, the Florent de Brie 2008 Rosé d'Anjou is a light, bright watermelon color, reminiscent of a watermelon candy. The aroma is sweet and fruity, with apple or pear and even some hints of watermelon, but also a bit of stone fruit. Peach, perhaps? The flavor is true to the nose. If you are looking for a bone dry rosé, I have to warn you that this is not it. But, if you can handle off-dry (which I personally think is delightful when properly chilled on a hot summer day), this is your wine! It is slightly tart, but juicy, and it bursts of fruit flavors. Most notably, I picked up strawberry, cherry, watermelon, and even a little apple. How is that for covering the spectrum?

I love this wine, which sells for around $13, and so might you! It is light, bright, and refreshing, with a short finish. Perfect for those lingering warm days we'll enjoy through September.

8.24.2009

Excursion: Seattle, Washington

Kevin and I were back in the Northwest last weekend, with a trip to Seattle where we, admittedly, spent more than a little time in and around the Pike Place Market. Yes, it may seem touristy and cliche, but with our hotel just a few blocks away, how could we resist the amazing spread of food and flora? We could not. And while many a Seattle native may shun the local landmark for the smaller neighborhood markets, I am not yet so immune to its charms! After all, there is a reason the tourists flock there...

After arriving in the city late at night, we found ourselves without a concrete agenda, and gravitating toward the Market, first thing the next morning. Though this wasn't our first trip to Seattle, or to the Market for that matter, we still managed to spend almost two hours meandering through. Highlights? Of course the famous "flying" fish at Pike Place Fish are always a must-see, but I tend to be more partial to the breathtaking spread of the freshest produce.

Since our hotel room accommodations limited our reasonable produce acquisitions to two (delicious) peaches, though, I was happy to run across Pappardelle's Pasta. While not unique to the Pike Place Market, Pappardelle's Pasta is certainly unique among pasta - and less perishable than a peach! We sampled chocolate linguine and purchased a bag of Asian orzo. With its unique promise of sesame, lemon ginger, cayenne pepper, chive, and garlic parsley flavors, I can't wait to boil up the orzo in my own kitchen. Pappardelle's is definitely worth a second look if you find yourself in the market...but so are the peaches!

Saturday afternoon found us back at the Market, indulging in a cheese-centric lunch at Beecher's Handmade Cheese. The menu at Beecher's includes soup and at least five kinds of grilled sandwiches (grilled cheese, of course...plain, with pesto, with ham, even crab...), along with the "Worlds' Best" Mac & Cheese, the spicier "Mariachi" Mac & Cheese, and the oh-so-tempting cheesy, herbed "Breadzel". Kevin and I can attest - they are not joking about that "World's Best" thing. The Mac & Cheese is indulgently creamy and delicious, but also incredibly rich. Grab a sandwich and a Mac & Cheese to split, then try to squeeze your way onto milk-jug seats at the counter, where you can watch the cheese being made right in front of your eyes!

We were fortunate to cap off our trip with a few Washington reds when our friends (who also happen to be Seattle residents) took us to Purple Cafe and Wine Bar. With an impressive wine list of over 80 pages and a centrally located "tower of wine", Purple is the place to go if you are looking for selection! We ordered the "Washington Red" flight, which included the Corvidae 'Lenore' Syrah 2006, the Three Rivers Winery 2006 Columbia Valley Merlot, the Woodward Canyon Winery 2007 'Nelms Road' Cabernet Sauvignon, and the O-S Winery 2006 Red. They were all delicious wines, but I was surprised to find that, despite being less than partial to Merlot lately, I found the Three Rivers Merlot to be the most drinkable of the bunch!


If you find yourself in Seattle (and you should really consider it), make sure not to miss out on the incredible bounty of the Northwest. As for us, we can't wait to go back...

8.17.2009

Wine of the Week: NV Bodegas Alconde Rosado Fresco

This week's wine is, of course, another rosé (I wasn't kidding about that rosé phase I mentioned). I went to my favorite wine shop last week to snatch up a bottle of my thus-far favorite rosé, and when they were (gasp!) out of it, I ended up with this instead. No worries - I am happy for the opportunity to try yet another recommended rosé.

The Bodegas Alconde Rosado Fresco hails from Navarra, Spain and, other than its frosty bottle and watermelon pink color, perhaps the most noticeable thing about it is the fizz! Yes, this wine is from the "Colección Semi-Seco" and sports some spritely bubbles. Catchy, but to return to my always underlying rosé question - Is it any good? The short answer is yes - at $11 a bottle, it has its place...and that place is on the patio.

This watermelon-hued, fizzy wine has strawberry aromas, with a touch of green apple and maybe some pear. Chilled to a proper "white" temperature, or even beyond, it presents as a bit more dry than it really is, with enough acid to be really refreshing. It is medium-bodied on the approach, light in the mid-palate (where it all but disappears), then long on the finish. And the taste? Strawberries again, with a touch of pink grapefruit bitterness and perhaps some Granny Smith apple. It's not the most complex wine ever, but fun enough on one of those 90 degree days we've been enjoying in this part of the country. Happy August...

8.16.2009

Profile: Mexican Oregano

The Michigan sweet corn is finally starting to come in, and I am excited to say that I bought my first few ears of the season at the farmers' market last week. There are so many reasons to be enthusiastic about the arrival of this late summer farm icon, beginning with a virtual return to the backyard garden of my childhood and perhaps ending with a fantastic recipe for corn chowder that I look forward to making (and posting) within the next few weeks. Today, though, I am most enthusiastic about the opportunity it provides me to write not about corn, but about Mexican oregano.

I first became aware of Mexican oregano a few years ago, after I received a cookbook filled with Mexican recipes, many of which, I found, called for Mexican oregano. I had never heard of Mexican oregano and wondered, "Can't I just use the Mediterranean stuff that's growing in my window box?", as I searched store after store for the elusive herb, coming up empty every time. After I finally stumbled across some Mexican oregano at a tiny (but positively heavenly) spice shop in, of all places, the quaint beachtown of Saugatuck, Michigan, I found out that the answer to that question is simply, "No!"

While it is used culinarily in similar ways as Mediterranean oregano (hence the name), the Mexican oregano plant is actually not even a member of the Origanum genus, to which most of the popular Mediterranean oregano varieties belong. While Origanum belongs to the mint family, the Mexican oregano or Lippia graveolens plant is more closely related to lemon verbena and belongs to the verbena family. And while both Mediterranean and Mexican oregano have a similar earthy, musky aroma and taste, the scent and flavor of Mexican oregano is certainly distinct.

Interestingly, I find that Mexican oregano smells sweeter, lighter, and even more floral than the more woody, tangy, and greener-scented Mediterranean oregano stored in my spice rack and growing on my front porch. Yet, in flavor, the Mexican variety tends to be bolder, spicier, and more, well, Mexican in its appeal. It can hold up to spicy foods, particularly sauces and marinades, and often bursts through in the final product, even despite the comparatively sparing quantities called for in the recipe. It's a beautiful flavor not to be missed, and though I do love it in a good pepper-based marinade, I prefer to highlight its unique taste in an even simpler preparation: Enter the fresh corn.

I love this "recipe" (I use the term loosely) for a few reasons. First, as mentioned, it's a great showcase for an interesting herb. Secondly, it's a great side dish for any meal that contains Mexican, Southwestern, or even South American flavors. Third, because carmelization is encouraged, it doesn't require a lot of attention during cooking. And if you can't find Mexican oregano at a store near you, never fear - see my note below for online resources.

Pan Toasted Corn with Mexican Oregano
(serves 4 as a side dish)

4 ears fresh corn
2 tsp olive oil
1 tsp Mexican oregano
Salt
2 pats butter

Standing one ear of the corn on end in a pie plate or shallow bowl, use a chef's knife to cut the kernels from the cob, cutting down toward the plate/bowl and rotating the cob before each cut until all of the kernels are removed. Repeat for the other three ears.

Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet on medium heat until it flows easily when the pan is tilted. Add the corn to the pan, tossing it to partially coat the kernels with the oil, then spreading them out so as many of the corn kernels as possible are in contact with the pan. Heat for about eight minutes, stirring only three or four times, and allowing some of the kernels to brown.

Stir in the Mexican oregano and salt to taste. Cook for one more minute before adding the butter and allowing it to melt over the corn. Stir one last time, then serve.

Mexican oregano can be found online at Spice Merchants (my local source) and at Penzeys Spices. Since it is very light, an ounce should be plenty to satisfy your needs!

8.10.2009

Wine of the Week: Domaine Massamier La Mignarde 2008 Cuvée des Oliviers Rosé

I just wouldn't be doing this season justice if I didn't review a rosé (or several). Always looking for something a little bit different, I've been absolutely obsessed with the stuff this summer. Most of the rosés available in better wine shops these days are classified as dry, not sweet, and are far from the dreaded white zinfandel. But the real question is - are they any good? Since my last run-in with a pink wine also involved a coffee mug and my college roommates, I decided to take the time to get to know some real rosés and decide for myself.

Admittedly, this rosé is not my favorite among those I've tried, but it's my latest taste...and I have to start somewhere. Also, while I didn't love the flavor, I found this wine to be interestingly full bodied compared to other rosés I've had. While most rosés more closely resemble whites in substance, this one seems to be about as close to the middle ground between a red and a white as it gets.

A blend of 80% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Grenache, the Cuvée des Oliviers Rosé is a bright pink shade with an orange-ish hue, and is almost coral in color. The aromas are of tart berries - the bottle mentioned red currants and strawberries, but I also picked up a distinct raspberry aroma, along with floral undertones and, frankly, some earthiness. The taste is bold - sour strawberry with a spicy hot, lemon-zesty component. And, of course, the wine is substantial. It has a hefty weight on the mid-palate, and a very long finish. And, of course, it's dry.

At about $12 a bottle, this wine is another one to try if you're looking for something very different. Stayed tuned for more rosés!

8.08.2009

Chipotle Lime Plantain Tacos

I improvised these plantain tacos a few weeks ago on a night when Kevin and I were short on time (and ingredients) before a Saturday night out with friends. They were such a great meatless meal, I decided to incorporate them into my repertoire as a quick weeknight dinner. In addition to the interesting Mexican- and Central American-inspired flavors, I like that most of the ingredients in these are sturdy enough for me to keep them on hand until a day or two before market day, when most of my fresh produce is long gone. Thankfully, the one ingredient that is not as sturdy (cilantro) grows in my garden.

Chipotle Lime Plantain Tacos
(recipe serves 2)

4 small corn tortillas (5 or 6 in. diameter)
4 tsp plus 1 T vegetable oil
4 T minced white onion
2 T minced cilantro
juice of 1/2 lime
salt
1 partially black plantain
1/8 tsp chipotle chile powder
4 avocado slices

Heat 1 tsp vegetable oil in a small frying pan at medium heat. Add one corn tortilla and fry until just slightly crispy but still pliable, about 30 seconds per side. Repeat with the other three tortillas, stacking each on a plate between paper towels as it is done. Set the finished tortillas aside.

Combine onion, cilantro, and lime in a small bowl. Salt to taste, then set aside.

Peel the plantain and cut into 3/4 inch cubes. Heat 1 T vegetable oil in the small frying pan to medium heat. Add the plantain cubes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they turn golden on all sides, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle on the chipotle powder and cook for 1 more minute, stirring frequently. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the plantains to a plate. Allow the plantains to cool slightly.

Place two tortillas on each plate, and separate the plantain cubes evenly among the four tortillas. Spoon the onion/cilantro/lime mixture onto each taco, then add an avocado slice to each to finish.

Note: If the plantain is more than partially black, the tacos may be a bit on the rich side. Add additional lime juice or even a teaspoon of fresh salsa to even them back out.

8.03.2009

Wine of the Week: GioCato Pinot Grigio 2008

This week's wine is a very interesting Pinot Grigio from Slovenia - another good recommendation from my local wine shop. I was looking for a summertime white that would harmonize well with a light Italian meal and was assured that this wine would fit the bill. I am happy to report that while I sometimes personally find Pinot Grigio to be a bit lacking in interest, this particular one is actually anything but.

A relatively young wine, it displays a very light, almost green straw hue, and an ever so slight effervescence. The aroma is pear and apple, but also sweet and tropical. Its tastes follow suit, with prominent pear and stone fruit flavors balanced by the crisp acidity of lemon and some mineral undertones.

This is a well-balanced wine, that is less light-bodied than many other Pinot Grigios that I have had. It is acidic on the finish, which is substantial for a white. All in all, I found it to be well worth its $11 price tag.

7.29.2009

Pizza with Figs, Prosciutto, Gorgonzola, and Arugula

After a bit of a hiatus from the kitchen, this week I decided to break in our new pizza stone with a recipe that utilizes, of all things, arugula. I have really been in love with the arugula from the farmers' market this spring and summer, so I was glad to come across this fancy, but deceptively easy, way to use my latest bunch.

The recipe for Pizza with Figs, Prosciutto, Gorgonzola, and Arugula is from the August issue of Bon Appetit magazine, and it is quick enough even for a weeknight meal (it doesn't include making the crust from scratch, which helps, though one certainly could do just that if one were so inclined). I used a very good balsamic, and found that the sweet musky flavor of the balsamic, as well as the figs, nicely balanced out the saltiness of the prosciutto. The spicy arugula also made a great foil for the rich Gorgonzola. For this reason, I can't stress enough how important I think it is to eat the pizza with the arugula on top, as suggested in the recipe. This pizza is really about the whole package. Incidentally, it was great the next day for lunch too.

The recipe for Pizza with Figs, Prosciutto, Gorgonzola, and Arugula can be found at epicurious.com

Note that while I'm sure the fig balsamic really ties the whole pizza together, it's probably unnecessary. I used a good regular balsamic and the result was still quite delicious.

6.26.2009

Wine of the Week: Vina Carmen Carmenere Rapel Valley 2006

I chose to profile this week's wine, the 2006 Carmen Carmenere from the Vina Carmen winery in Chile, for two reasons. First, it retails for under $10, which is always appreciated. Secondly, it is a wine under $10 that is actually a little bit interesting and definitely something different.

Dark red (almost purple) in color, the 2006 Carmen Carmenere releases aromas of raspberry, which are accented by spicy, almost fiery, herbal background notes, reminiscent of chili peppers. The taste is bold, with the fruit coming through on the approach and the mid-palate, and a lingering spicy black pepper finish following. I found the fruit flavors to be mainly raspberry and black cherry. The most striking aspect of this wine's flavor to me, though, is the hard-to-miss green pepper woven throughout. That green pepper flavor is not always a desireable characteristic, but it seems to work here, and while it's not something I would like to have every day, it is an interesting departure from the usual earthy red. This wine is worth a try if you're looking for something different, but still inexpensive.

6.22.2009

Veronica's Potato Salad

I am aware that today's recipe requires a bit of suspended disbelief for most people. So, I have to ask you, Dear Reader, to hang in there with me. I promise - This is a great dish, and one I have made over and over, which is why I am very excited to share it with you!

Yesterday's Father's Day holiday reminded me again of Giada De Laurentiis' recipe for Veronica's Potato Salad. If I remember correctly, the recipe was Giada's mother, Veronica De Laurentiis', recipe (hence the name). How fitting, then, that the first guests that I ever served it to were my own parents, for a Father's Day picnic several years ago. I have to admit that I've made a few adjustments to the recipe, but the main "suspended disbelief" ingredient remains intact in my version - hot dogs!

As usual, the key to this simple recipe is choosing quality ingredients. As you might imagine, that holds particularly true for the hot dogs, which are not camouflaged in any way in the final product. I generally choose a kosher all-beef variety (tonight I used Hebrew National Beef Franks), but you could use any type that you find exceptionally tasty. I think it would be interesting to try a chicken sausage in this recipe too, for instance. Also, Giada's version calls for regular russet potatoes with the skin removed, but I've found that I like to use a more waxy variety of "new" potato, like a redskin or a yukon gold, and leave the skin on. Finally, in a pinch, or if you just don't like it, the basil isn't essential. The parsley in this recipe really does the heavy lifting of giving it that aspect of freshness, and sometimes that's all I use. This seven ingredient mayo-free and mediterranean-inspired version of a classic picnic staple is truly worth suspending your disbelief!

The recipe for Veronica's Potato Salad can be found at www.foodnetwork.com.

6.16.2009

Wine of the Week: Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2007 & 2008

Since Malbec was my wine of choice for much of late 2007 and early 2008, I thought it would only be appropriate to review one. After all, Malbec is the quintessential value wine these days, often coming in at the under $20 price-point while still offering a reasonably rich and complex wine experience. I know I am in good company in having an affinity for it.

A couple of weeks ago, I was pleasantly surprised by the Altos Las Hormigas 2007 Malbec. I was so impressed with it, in fact, that I went back to the store to get a second bottle. But when I got there, I found not the 2007, but the 2008 vintage. It seemed like a great opportunity to compare, so I brought a bottle of the 2008 home.

Let me start by saying that both vintages are good. I do favor the 2007 slightly, but at around $13, the 2008 is still a well-worthy wine. Both wines are dark purple to ruby in color, and they share some aromas, but yet have subtle differences. My 2007 tasting notes included black cherry, raspberry, cassis, fig (or something similarly sweet), and even a slightly medicinal note. The 2008, however, still had the black cherry and raspberry, but they were rounded out by a floral scent and some spice (the winery's tasting notes say violet and nutmeg, but I'll leave that up to you).

In terms of taste, the 2007 was positively juicy, with blackberry and black cherry flavors, and just a hint of cocoa. The 2008 wasn't as juicy, but still had a strong blackberry flavor and an undeniable blueberry aspect. Instead of cocoa, the 2008 tasted of spice.

The Altos Las Hormigas Malbec is a full-bodied, structured wine, regardless of the vintage. Tannins are prominent from the mid-palate through the long finish to the end. I found these both to be great wines, best enjoyed immediately upon opening. Drink them right away - they don't retain their bold flavors overnight.

6.15.2009

Balsamic Vinaigrette

Today's picture includes mustard - not because mustard is the topic of the post, but rather because it is the less obvious of the two ingredients used to make this incredibly simple vinaigrette.

I've already told you about my conversion to do-it-yourself salad dressing...and I've waxed poetic about a good balsamic vinegar. Now I'm putting the two topics together with this quick recipe for a balsamic vinaigrette. All that's needed is a quality balsamic vinegar and a jar of Dijon mustard...and maybe some exceptional olive oil. That's it! This balsamic vinaigrette will remind you why you bought that fancy bottle (as if you needed reminding!).

Simple Balsamic Vinaigrette

1 Part Dijon Mustard
3 Parts Balsamic Vinegar
1/2 Part Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Optional)

Whisk the Dijon and balsamic vinegar together in a bowl until smooth. Taste and adjust as necessary. For added richness, whisk in the olive oil. Serve immediately or refrigerate before use.

6.10.2009

Profile: Plantains

I first fell in love with plantains during a trip to San Pedro Sula, Honduras. Our gorgeous hotel was in an exclusive neighborhood (notably, it was also surrounded by iron bars and well-armed guards, but nevertheless) and it served up a truly bountiful spread every morning for our early-AM meal. It was during one of those almost embarrassingly plentiful breakfasts that I had my first plantain tamale. I was immediately hooked.

Fortunately for me, plantains are available in many U.S. supermarkets. They are usually sold when they are just turning yellow, giving them a slightly dirty appearance. They are often located near the bananas, their size and lack of bunching distinguishing them from their smaller, sweeter cousins. Plantains can be eaten at any stage of ripeness - green, yellow, or even black. In fact, to use a plantain in a sweet application requires allowing it to turn almost completely black, well beyond the point where a standard supermarket banana would be considered edible. All but the most ripe plantains must be cooked to be enjoyed.

Though musa paradisiaca is, as it appears to be, a type of banana, I find that it is better to think of the plantain more like a potato. Plantains can be incorporated into sweet dishes, and they often are used that way, but only when overripe. And even then, the plantain does not reach the natural sweetness of the Cavendish bananas (also known as dessert bananas) that line U.S. supermarket shelves. Rather, plantains are very starchy and (depending upon their level of ripeness) not very sweet. When green, they are not sweet at all, but still very filling. Thus, in many cultures the plantain really does function like a potato - an inexpensive, and important, source of nutritious calories.

True to its starchy character, the plantain can be prepared in many ways. It can be boiled, steamed, fried, sauteed, grilled, even mashed. One of the most well-known preparations of plantains are tostones, which are twice-fried "patties" similar to chips. I have personally had plantains in many ways, and have gone to great lengths to enjoy them in my cooking (Most memorably in Plantain Tamales with Molasses Butter from Bobby Flay's From My Kitchen To Your Table, which were good, but well beyond my usual "keep it simple" routine!). My favorite preparation is just to saute them, though, like in Jack Bishop's Caribbean Black Beans with Sauteed Plantains from A Year in a Vegetarian Kitchen.

If you haven't already, it's well worth it to discover this dietary staple of so many tropical regions. Just remember that many a plantain novice has been disappointed when the plantain wasn't what they expected, so if you are trying plantains for the first time, try to ignore their banana resemblance as much as you possibly can!

This Tyler Florence recipe is just what I have in mind for an easy plantain preparation. One thing to note that Tyler doesn't mention: A plantain can't be peeled like a supermarket banana. Cut the plantain with the skin on, then score the skin and remove it in sections.

Tyler Florence's recipe for Caramelized Plantains "Plantanos al Caldero" can be found at foodnetwork.com

6.07.2009

Wine of the Week: Stag's Leap 2005 Napa Valley Petite Syrah

If this wine's label strikes you as a bit more fancy than usual, I'll provide fair warning that your instincts are correct. This bottle checks in well above my usual $20 price cap. In fact, the reason I purchased it at all was because, after enjoying this wine at the extravagant restaurant price during a friend's birthday dinner several months ago, I was thrilled to find it at Trader Joe's for around $33. I had to pick it up.

Not being one to wait for the ever-elusive perfect occasion to open a special bottle, I left this one in the cellar only until the moment felt right. And that moment was a casual Saturday evening at home with Kevin just this past weekend. We opened it late in the evening and each had a generous glass - the perfect opportunity to truly enjoy and appreciate a good wine.

The 2005 Napa Valley Petite Syrah has an extremely dark ruby hue, and abounding aromas. I picked up smoky leather notes right away, followed by dark purple fruits - blackberry and plum - and also some cassis. There was a particular sweetness to the scent as well, perhaps a vanilla, and floral undertones. Cocoa was the last scent that I picked up, but it is not to be underestimated.

If you like big California wines, this wine is for you. It is full-bodied, with prominent tannins and a long finish, but is still surprisingly well-balanced. Flavors are both juicy and savory, with the same plum, blackberry, and cassis as on the nose, but also including smoky and spicy elements as well. The finish is slightly bitter. I called it medicinal, but others have likened it to bitter chocolate, which is probably a more appealing description! Overall, this wine is very good, though too pricey to be an everyday wine for me. Perhaps next time I will spring for it on only a very special occasion - or, better yet, find a $20-and-under "stand in"!

6.04.2009

Food Read: In Defense of Food

Michael Pollan is at it again. Or maybe I should say that I'm at it again - buying into his latest food-centric hypothesis with exceptional fervor. Pollan has been in the media again recently, on a small (or perhaps large, as I personally have seen several interviews with him) junket for the release of the paperback version of his most recent book, In Defense of Food. I used the availability of the less pricey paperback as my excuse to finally pick up my own copy, and have been plowing through the slim read at a steady pace. In Defense of Food is somewhat of a follow-up to the much-heralded The Omnivore's Dilemma, and I am glad that I had the discipline to force myself to read Omnivore before picking up Defense. While In Defense of Food does stand on its own, it is really made so much richer by the context that The Omnivore's Dilemma provides. It is easier, for instance, to comprehend why modern "industrialized" fruits and vegetables may contain fewer nutrients if you have read the more full and detailed description of how exactly those fruits and vegetables are produced.

In Defense of Food addresses modern American nutrition (or rather, "nutritionism") in the same way The Omnivore's Dilemma addressed modern American food production - by breaking it open and providing a solid basis for questioning the very basic premises that Americans generally take for granted. Where exactly did the U.S. government's nutritional guidelines come from? How have those guidelines been influenced by industry versus by science? And when they are influenced by science, how much do those scientists really know about how food works in our bodies? According to Pollan's research, the answer to the last question seems to be surprisingly little.

Which leads to the main premise of Pollan's argument - that the current approach to nutrition in the United States, generally centered around individual macro- and now micro-nutrients, ignores the likely very important larger picture surrounding nutrition. Pollan suggests, rather convincingly, that what makes many traditional diets successful (think of the French or Mediterranean diets, for example) is not so much a matter of a particular food or nutrient, but rather the combination of foods and nutrients eaten together. Further, he argues that how those foods are eaten, the cultural norms that have grown up around them, plays an integral part in the healthfulness of the diet as well. It's not a surprise that the French tend to be thinner than their U.S. counterparts when you take into account a culture of smaller portions and a tendency against second helpings. In the meantime, the so-called scientific approach to eating in the U.S. has resulted not in a healthier population, but rather has coincided with an increased prevelance of obesity and "diseases of civilization", such as diabetes and heart disease.

Though Pollan does, as he admits, sometimes fall back on "nutritionism" to prove his point, his overall argument makes sense, and is hard to refute based on the plethora of evidence he provides. After poking holes in almost every nutritional guideline presented in the past fifty years, Pollan does not leave us with nothing, though. The final section of the book contains some very straightforward, if general, guidelines for eating. These guidelines fall under Pollan's general rules of "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.", and are the most straightforward, common sense set of nutritional guidelines I've encountered to date. As Pollan has effectively changed my thinking about food shopping, so now he has similarly affected my thinking about food eating. I will surely keep his guidelines in mind when making food choices in the future. For that reason, I definitely consider In Defense of Food a worthy read.

6.01.2009

Pita Sandwich with Cucumber and Hummus

During lunch with a colleague last week, the conversation turned to cucumbers (What can I say? I love to eat food. I love to talk about food. I love to talk about food while I eat food...). Specifically, the discussion centered around cucumbers as a sandwich ingredient, and a most divine sandwich ingredient at that. Thoughtfully, I pondered my tuna-with-cucumber-and-sprouts on French bread. What is it about a cucumber that makes it such a wonderful addition to a sandwich? And, since a few slices of cucumber can literally transform a sandwich, why isn't its use as a topper more ubiquitous?

I can't answer the second question. But, since my forays into the world of cucumber-laden sandwiches were born not from a search for flavor, but rather from a more practical place, I can attempt a response to the first. A cucumber on a sandwich functions much like lettuce - crunchy and refreshing, with an unmistakable flavor that says "veggie". But unlike lettuce, the cucumber has more of all of this - more of a structured crunch, more of a refreshing sensation, more of that vegetal "green-ness". Which gets to why I started putting cucumbers on my sandwiches... Quite simply, they were a great replacement for wilt-prone lettuce when I was shopping for one! The pita sandwich below was, and still is, one of my staples in a pinch and highlights the cucumber nicely.


Pita Sandwich with Cucumber and Hummus
(makes 2)

1 medium-sized pita, halved crosswise to form two pockets
1/4 english cucumber (about 4 inches), sliced thin
1 medium vine tomato
2 oz. pepper jack cheese, sliced (you can also use a good, creamy feta - I love Trader Joe's brand)
4 T roasted red pepper hummus*

Carefully open each pita half and spread the hummus evenly around the inside of the pocket. Arrange the cheese slices along one side of the pocket, using the hummus to keep them in place. Do the same with the cucumber slices on the other side of the pocket. Slice the tomato and place the slices between the cheese and cucumber to complete the sandwich.

*Of course, there is no reason a traditional hummus wouldn't work in this sandwich just as well, as would a different flavor. I like to use jalapeno hummus when I am craving even more of a "kick".

5.26.2009

Pea and Parmesan Wonton Ravioli

Memorial Weekend traditionally marks the beginning of the gardening season in this part of the country, the earliest date that one can be reasonably confident not to encounter a devastating frost immediately upon dropping that last tomato plant into a hand-hewn hole in the ground. I started making preparations a few days ahead of time this year, beginning by locating the window box that I'd brought over from my previous address. I'll admit that last fall's wedding activities snatched the majority of the attention that I had been paying to my plants away mid-stream. Accordingly, I expected to find the badly neglected window box, which had been overgrown with unruly oregano and mint in October, exactly where I had left it, and full of...dirt. So, imagine my surprise when I rounded the corner of the house to find the window box, yes, just where I had left it, but also brimming with a purple-tinged dark green forest of herbs. I had underestimated my mint! Twenty minutes later, I had a relatively debris-free mint planter, and a head start on my garden for the year.

Tonight, I was thrilled to take advantage of my windfall for the first time, using my home grown mint in Pea and Parmesan Wonton Ravioli, from the May issue of Gourmet magazine. Since there were only two of us for dinner, and this recipe yields quite a bit, I cut the portions down by a quarter, and it still worked beautifully. In fact, after assembling the ravioli, I realized that I had come up with exactly 24 ravioli without even trying - precisely three-quarters of the stated yield! We had enough for dinner for two, with plenty left over.

I have to say that this recipe really delivers in terms of time, and taste. The bright peas and fresh mint in these ravioli positively scream of spring, and the parmesan adds a wonderfully savory and filling aspect to the vegetarian dish. All of that in five ingredients and under an hour? I'm sold. With one of those five ingredients conveniently growing in my backyard, I'll keep the rest on hand to make this recipe in a pinch.

The recipe for Pea and Parmesan Wonton Ravioli can be found at Epicurious.com. One note of warning: Allow wonton wrappers to remain too wet after cooking, and they will be slimy. Too dry? The ravioli will stick together. Be sure to lay the ravioli out flat after they are removed from the water, and consider allowing both sides to dry quickly before serving.

5.24.2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Bodegas Luzon Luzon, Jumilla, Spain

By now, the 2007 Bodegas Luzon is well-known in the wine world for being a wine of exceptional value, and for good reason. Favorably reviewed by all the big names, this $9 red blend from Spain is a fantastic deal. In the words of Wine Enthusiast, it "Overdelivers by a lot!".

The Luzon is an inky ruby- and violet-hued Monastrell-Syrah blend from the Jumilla DO in the Mediterranean Coast region of Spain. It is surprisingly complex on both the nose and the palate, delivering both fruit and "non-fruit" aromas and flavors. I found the initial scent to be dominated by purple stone fruit, such as dark cherries and plums, but also followed by leather and mineral/earth notes.

A solidly medium-bodied wine with a smooth, velvety mouthful, the Luzon is well-balanced. Flavors are fruity, spicy, and savory. Black cherry dominated the fruit portion for me, but a smoky, even "gamey" flavor was also prominent. Herbal notes have also been associated with this wine. Though I didn't pick those up during my first tasting, I'd like to open another bottle and try. At $9 each, it would be well within the budget to repeat this wine!

5.20.2009

Profile: Balsamic Vinegar


I am writing about balsamic vinegar today because it would be a shame for anyone to think that the extent of balsamic vinegar ends with $4 brown acid-water on the grocery store shelf. If it did, the term "Vinegar Tasting" surely would not exist. But as it is, perfectly reasonable people are known to taste, and enjoy, balsamic vinegar straight from a spoon or even a small glass. Why? Because true balsamic vinegar is a magically sweet, tart, and complex condiment made with very specific ingredients, in a very specific place, and according to a very particular centuries-old process.

True balsamic vinegar is strictly controlled by Italian law and can only come from one of two Italian cities, Modena or Reggio Emilia. Known as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (or di Reggio Emilia), this vinegar is made from the juice (or must) of the white Trebbiano grape, which has been boiled down and aged in various wooden barrels for a minimum of twelve years, then has been approved by master tasters. The process produces a condiment as thick as syrup and amazingly complex - not only sweet and sour, but also containing flavors often ascribed to wine - stewed fruit, musk, and tobacco, for example. That said, there is a 'catch'. As you might guess, something requiring such an artisan (and lengthy - balsamic vinegars can be aged for 50 years or more) process isn't always easy to come by. And if you do, it's not exactly cheap.

Fortunately, something between the tradizionale and the aforementioned brown acid-water does exist. That "something", or rather somethings, are in the form of Aceto Balsamico Condimento or even Aceto Balsamico di Modena ("Industriale" Balsamic).

Condimento has been made according to the traditional process, but for the exception of one variable. Thus, it does not qualify for consortium approval, perhaps because it has not been aged for twelve years, or because it has not been aged in the proper types of wood, or even just because it was made outside the boundaries of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Condimento can still be pricey, but is considered to offer a good value because it is made in a style similar to the tradizionale, but can be obtained at perhaps half the cost.

Possessing a bit of a tricky name, Aceto Balsamico di Modena is really "cheater" balsamic, made using grape must, but possibly also red wine vinegar, sugar or a quick caramelization process, and/or wood chips. To be called balsamic at all, these need to be aged at least three years. While there is no guarantee that an Industriale will be good, many are, and it is worth one's while to seek out a decent bottle, which will be in roughly the $10 to $20 price range. Buy it, and it will become a kitchen staple, but will still last a long time.

And the $4 brown acid-water? That's imitation balsamic, most likely cider vinegar with some caramel coloring added. At that price point, it can't possible be balsamic!

5.16.2009

Excursion: Le Petit Zinc

On a tip from Detroit's HOUR Magazine, I recently visited Le Petit Zinc, a new-ish cafe in Detroit. Venturing into an unfamiliar area, I found Le Petit Zinc in the most unexpected building in a most unexpected neighborhood - It inhabits part of a squat brick building on the corner of Trumbull and Howard in the quiet and aptly named West Side Industrial neighborhood, on the south edge of Corktown. Blink and you might miss the painted sign clueing you in...

The entrance to Le Petit Zinc is off a fenced-in courtyard, complete with a gurgling and tiered stone fountain and mismatched tables and chairs. The patio currently serves as overflow and will, no doubt, be hopping as the weather continues to warm. The inside seats only around 30 - about 10 at the Paris-inspired zinc bar, and 20 or so at wooden tables with simple and sturdy wooden chairs. The decor is lively and slightly bohemian, with bright yellow walls, floor length green velvet drapes, and french-inspired murals on the walls. Of course, a flat screen TV in an upper corner broadcasts the soccer (or is that football?) game.

Water is served in wine bottles and coffee in sturdy ceramic cups with tiny spoons. One can watch chef/owner Charles Sorel and two or three others preparing the food just behind the bar. And the menu? French favorites - salads, baguette sandwiches, and crepes, both sweet and savory. You can even order ratatouille! I had the savory Fromage de Chevre et Epinards (spinach and goat cheese) Crepe. It was served with a mixed green salad, as all Le Petit Zinc's savory crepes are, and it was delicious. The crepe itself was light, and the filling did not rely too heavily on the goat cheese, but was accented with a generous quantity of pine nuts. And, of course, the coffee was rich, always a must at breakfast or brunch.

In this recession time, I would be remiss not to at least touch on the cost, which is, I have to say, surprisingly reasonable. My crepe was $6.75 and my coffee $2 (It's worth it - trust me), for a total bill of under $10 in all, quite a steal these days for food so fresh and fantastic.

If you are in the Detroit area, don't miss Le Petit Zinc. It is easy to get to (just off the Lodge), and even easier to appreciate as a hidden gem of Detroit.

5.12.2009

Chicken with Black Pepper & Lime Marinade

My dear friend Anna's dad once saved our college dinner party by gracing us with this recipe, and I have loved it ever since. It's hard not to love a recipe that is not only incredibly simple and a flash to prepare, but also reminds one of visits to Mexico, the Caribbean, and Key West. This version may differ slightly from the original, but the spirit is the same. Tonight I served this chicken with fresh pico de gallo and Mexican pan-toasted corn, but I've also served it with garlicky spinach and sweet potato oven fries with chipotle date chutney for a more Caribbean feel.

Chicken with Black Pepper & Lime Marinade

4 chicken breasts
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (about 3 or 4 limes)
2/3 cup olive oil
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Combine the lime juice, olive oil, and black pepper in a small bowl using a wire whisk or fork. Pour enough marinade into a glass baking dish to cover the bottom of the dish, then add the chicken to the dish. Add the rest of the marinade to the dish, making sure to coat each chicken breast. Cover the dish and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, but not more than one hour.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the chicken from the glass baking dish and place on a baking sheet. Bake until done, 20 to 40 minutes, depending upon the size of the chicken breast. Serve immediately.

5.10.2009

Wine of the Week: 2004 Taz Pinot Gris, Santa Barbara

I know that I just wrote about margaritas, and now here I am writing about a wine in my next post, but I just couldn't wait to share this really interesting pick! The 2004 Taz Pinot Gris is around $15-$20 (depending upon where you live), so it is at the top of my usual $20-and-under price range, but I think it is a great wine, particularly for a special occasion that is calling for something a little more interesting. I was lucky enough to attend a tasting of Taz Vineyards wines a couple of months ago, and found this wine to be the most interesting of the wines we tasted, though all of the wines I had from this small-ish Santa Barbara County winery were good.

The 2004 Pinot Gris is a golden straw color, with aromas of lime and tropical fruit (the tasting notes mentioned lichee, but I couldn't pick that out in particular). It is a full-bodied, almost creamy wine, with a medium to long finish. The taste is exactly what you might expect based on the nose - also tropical. Upon first sip, I was greeted with the overwhelming taste of pineapple, which was followed by strong guava flavors, combined with bright green pear. This wine is pleasantly balanced and uniquely flavored - the perfect thing to try the next time you are looking for a white that is a little bit different.

5.07.2009

Classic Margarita

I have been waiting literally all year to write about margaritas. Not because I love them, though I do, but because I think it is important for everyone to know that a good margarita has absolutely nothing to do with margarita mix. What's more, a margarita made without mix is not any more difficult or complicated to make than one that uses it. All that's needed is a good silver tequila, triple sec (or Grand Marnier or blue curacao - something orange flavored), and limes. That's it. It's important to note that the word "good" before the tequila is key. Since a classic margarita highlights, rather than obliterates, the tequila flavor, choosing a tequila worthy of highlighting has a huge impact on the results.

Now, to get down to business... I like to use a 2:1:1 ratio, meaning two parts tequila, one part triple sec, and one part lime juice. Generally my "parts" are just ounces, combined and alway served on the rocks (never blended). The ice adds a little bit of volume, and helps to mellow the drink out a bit, since 3 ounces of liquor/liqueur makes for a drink with a kick! Remember to sip slowly - taking the time to enjoy the subtleties of the drink's flavor is the point, after all. If you must, it's easy to salt the rim of your glass (the less high-quality your tequila, the more likely it is that you will want to take this step). Just pour some sea salt onto a small plate, run a lime wedge around the edge of the glass, and dip the rim of the glass into the salt.

I promise that once you've made this classic margarita for yourself, you'll never consider using store-bought mix again!

5.04.2009

Grilled Beef Brochettes

I have the bad (though some would call it good!) habit of purchasing random food items from my local grocery store or farmers' market on nothing more than a whim - because they look interesting, or because I've always wanted to try them... Who can blame me? The selection of "ingredients" available these days can be absolutely intoxicating. A bunch of fresh and mild green garlic, a creamy wheel of soft Queso Blanco, a mountain of sweet smelling and sunset-colored mangoes... It can all be so irresistable! Recently, aji panca peppers were one of those purchases. I bought them a couple of weeks ago while I was shopping for dried New Mexico chiles to use in an enchilada sauce (Did I mention that early May means Mexican food in my house? More on that later...). Ever since Kevin and I had that amazing meal at Andina in Portland, I have been curious about Peruvian food. So when I saw the dark, wrinkled, mahogany-colored Peruvian aji panca next to the New Mexico chiles, I had to buy them. Never mind that I had no idea what I would do with them!

Fast forward a couple of weeks - Destined for a Friday night on my couch with my box of tissues, thanks to a nasty cold, I picked up the latest copy of Gourmet magazine on my way home. Imagine my excitement when I realized that not only did the May issue include a whole meals-worth of Peruvian recipes, but one that used aji panca to boot! I made the Grilled Beef Brochettes tonight, and they were absolutely delicious. Since I did not have the aji panca paste, but rather, dried aji panca, I reconstituted them in a little water and blended the mixture to form a thin paste, which worked quite well. The resulting robust marinade was absolutely mouth-watering. I served these with Caribbean Black Beans with Sauteed Plantains from Jack Bishop's A Year in a Vegetarian Kitchen, and it made for a delicious meal.

The recipe for Grilled Beef Brochettes can be found at epicurious.com

5.01.2009

Wine of the Week: Hogue Fume Blanc Columbia Valley 2007

I bought this wine a while ago at Trader Joe's because I had been reading about Fume Blanc and thought that Hogue's version would be a good bet in the under-$20 range (I think it was about $11). It turns out that I was right - it was a good bet! This pale yellow, almost green in color, slightly effervescent wine was not a bad pick for the price point. The aroma was of stone fruit, peaches in particular, and I also picked up some tropical notes - perhaps papaya or guava. As you might expect, it is a very light-bodied wine, but I was surprised to find that it has a longer finish. Not so surprising, but rather pleasing, was the fact that it features a bit of an acidic tang as well. The predominant flavors that came across to me were of citrus (lemon zest) and tart green pear, with some herbal notes. I will definitely keep this wine in mind for pairing with early summer meals.

4.28.2009

Poached-Egg Topper

Originally, I didn't make this salad for garlic.pepper.parsley, but because I was hungry! It was so pretty when it was done, though, that I couldn't help but take a picture. Then, while looking at the picture, it came to me that maybe this little quick-meal trick of mine might be useful to others, so I decided to post it.


If it seems odd to put a poached egg on top of a salad, I have to ask you to suspend your disbelief for just a moment and stay with me. When I was still cooking for one, not to mention trying to maintain my pre-wedding weight, this dish made a frequent appearance on my table. Why? Because it's light, reasonably balanced, easy to make, and a good way to use up vegetables (and eggs) before they go bad in the refrigerator! And, the added protein from the egg really turns the salad into a meal. You can add dressing to the salad before adding the egg if you'd like (a light vinaigrette works well), but you don't need to, because the runny egg yolk makes a nice dressing by itself. As always, I'd recommend adding a few turns from the pepper grinder as well.

Poaching an egg is not the easiest thing to do, but it also isn't hard if you use my method. The end result may not be the most beautiful thing ever, but it works! I just fill a very small frying pan about 2/3 full with water and add a splash or two (about 1 tsp.) of vinegar. Then, I heat the water on medium until bubbles start to form on the bottom and sides of the pan. I crack the egg into a separate bowl and drop it into the center of the pan. While the sides of the egg white cook, I spoon water over the top of the egg until the white turns opaque over the yolk. Then, I use a slotted spoon to remove the egg and place it on a paper towel for a couple of minutes to drain. That's it!

If you still just can't bring yourself to put that egg on top of a salad, try it on pasta! The yolk works as a great simple sauce. And, "an egg on top" is a popular food trend this year, so you'll be on the cutting edge!

4.25.2009

Wine of the Week: Chateau Montus 2003 Madiran

This wine departs from my usual picks because it is not as widely available, and because it is only under twenty dollars if you buy a half bottle! Still, when I sampled it at a wine tasting about a month and a half ago, I knew that I would have to write a post about it. First, the specifics: I purchased this wine through the hosts of the tasting for about seventeen dollars for the half bottle (375 ml). It is a relatively high alcohol blend of 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and is from the Madiran appellation in Southwest France.

The wine is extremely dark purple in color, even inky. The aromas are of currant, blackberry, tobacco, and leather, but the taste is really what makes this wine interesting to me. At first, almost no fruit comes through, and the wine is really all about the tannins, and woody, smoky, non-fruit flavors. It is only after it has been given some time to breathe that any fruit comes through, cassis and blackberry most notably, on the mid-palate. In the meantime, the wine is full-bodied with a long, coarse finish. Tannins are prominent, but not astringent, lending it a smooth, "chewy" texture. The balance is only threatened slightly by the high alcohol. Once this wine has had some time to open up, the fruit, the tannins, the acid, and the alcohol all play nicely. Before that? It is an interesting change to have a wine that is not so juicy. Definitely worth a try if you come across a bottle.

4.22.2009

Food Read: Educating Peter

If Educating Peter seems to be an unlikely name for a book in the food realm, it may prove even more shocking to learn that this book is actually about wine. Yes, Lettie Teague, wine editor at Food & Wine magazine, wrote the 2007 book to chronicle her adventures in teaching her good, but wine-ignorant, friend Peter Travers (film critic at Rolling Stone magazine) a thing or two about wine. Actually, her goal was to teach Travers, who proclaimed his love for "fatty" Chardonnay, more than a thing or two about wine. Rather, she wanted to, "teach someone enough about wine that he or she would be able to read a restaurant wine list without fear, approach a wine merchant with confidence, and perhaps even score a few points off a wine-snob friend".

I have to admit that I had high expectations for this book. After hearing a light-hearted interview of Teague and Travers on The Splendid Table, I purchased the book in the hopes that it would be more engaging than the other wine books I was muddling through at the time. It was more engaging at first, but then...it lost me for a while. Meaning, about halfway through the book, I set it down and didn't pick it back up for at least a month.

I did eventually finish Educating Peter, and I have to say that in the end, it's not a bad book. To Teague's credit, she does cover a lot of ground in 250 pages - everything from wine vocabulary and bottle shapes, to wine regions old world and new, to pairing wine with food. But I wonder if she tried to do too much with this book by trying to cover so much ground, while still including Peter's reactions to each topic. The factual information about wine seems to be less than complete in the beginning, where engaging anecdotes of teaching Peter rule the text. Then in the middle, where wine-producing regions are detailed in sequence, the shear quantity of information seems to crowd out the "Peter-isms" for the most part, and left me wishing for more. The interesting thing is, this book is marketed as being targeted toward true wine novices. I would not consider myself to be a wine expert now, but when I bought this book, I was a true novice - at least close enough to be able to weigh in on this claim! I have to say that this book went a bit beyond the novice realm in so thoroughly detailing regions, producers, and even vintages. Despite being a relatively detail-oriented person, I found myself wondering how I would ever remember all of these details, short of carrying the book around with me!

Surprisingly, I did retain many more of those specifics than I ever expected, and, despite barely making it through the first time, I am actually considering reading the book again. Having come so far in my wine knowledge since I first bought it, I think I will be better able to appreciate what this book has to offer now. And, despite Teague's sometimes obvious wine-snob tone, I am interested in what she has to say. The bonus? The book's format should make it a breeze to re-read.

4.19.2009

Fried Rice with Spring Veg

Tonight I really had a taste for a spring-inspired meal filled with sweet, crunchy vegetables...but I also didn't want to spend all night in the kitchen. This quick fried rice really fit the bill! The brown rice and bits of egg ensure that it is filling, and the vegetables make it tasty and interesting. Keep some cooked brown rice on hand, and you can whip this up in no time.

Fried Rice with Spring Veg
(serves 2)

1 T Olive Oil or Canola Oil
2 Cups Cooked Brown Rice
2 or 3 Eggs
1 Cup Chopped Snap Peas
5 Medium Radishes, Sliced
1/4 - 1/2 tsp. Sweet and Spicy Curry Powder
1 T Light Soy Sauce
Sesame Seeds
Sesame Oil
2 to 4 Lime Wedges

Heat 1 tsp of the oil in a medium sized skillet over medium heat. Quickly scramble the eggs with a fork, and add them to the pan, swirling to ensure they cover the bottom of the pan. Cook the eggs into a sort of flat omelette, lifting the edges as they cook to let the uncooked egg run underneath. Remove the egg from the pan and set aside.

Heat the remaining oil in the pan, also over medium heat. Add the rice to the pan and allow it to warm for several minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the snap peas, curry powder, and soy sauce, then let cook for about five minutes. Meanwhile, slice the egg lengthwise and across to form small squares of whatever size you wish. Then, add the radishes to the pan and let cook for about 2 minutes before finally stirring in the egg. Warm the egg for about a minute or less.

Separate into two bowls, and garnish each with a sprinkle of sesame seeds, a generous drizzle of sesame oil, and a lime wedge or two. Remember to use the lime when you eat this dish - It makes all the difference!

4.13.2009

Simple Lemon Vinaigrette

I first made this vinaigrette out of necessity. Faced with a beautiful, but bare, freshly prepared salad and a refrigerator conspicuously devoid of the proper dressing, what else could I do? Fortunately, I always keep a lemon or two on hand. I whipped up this quick dressing and, since then, I make my own vinaigrette just as often as I buy it. This is the perfect dressing for the fresh baby lettuces, sprouts, and micro-greens that are showing up at the spring farmers' markets right about now. Using a good, green salad-grade olive oil makes all the difference.

Simple Lemon Vinaigrette

1/2 Lemon
1 tsp Honey
2-3 T Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Pinch of Salt
Freshly Ground Black Pepper

Squeeze the juice of the lemon into a medium-sized bowl. Add the honey, salt, and pepper to taste. Slowly stream in the olive oil, while whisking the mixture until combined. Taste and adjust as necessary.

To serve, add fresh salad greens to the bowl and toss.

4.10.2009

Profile: Craft Beer

I’ve written quite a bit about wine in GarlicPepperParsley, attempting to simplify it and make it more accessible, in part by identifying some good under-$20 bottles. Today I’d like to discuss another beverage that has been overshadowed by the wine discussion, but is close to my heart nonetheless. Kevin and I were introduced to craft beer several years ago by friends of ours, and have never looked back! Frankly, it would be a shame for anyone who really appreciates flavor to be drinking only mass-produced light beer (think Bud Light), something akin to drinking Yellow Tail Pinot Grigio as a sole wine choice. Yet, with craft beer sales comprising less than 5% of the U.S. market volume, it’s likely that many people are doing just that! The craft beer industry was born in the mid- to late-1970s in the U.S. as a backlash against the rapid disappearance of old-world beer traditions and styles from the country, as well as in an attempt to allow smaller brewers to differentiate themselves from the “big guys”. Craft beer is beer made in comparatively small quantities by a particular brewer, often in a microbrewery, brewpub, or even at home. The brewer uses variations of the main ingredients of grain (malt), hops, yeast, and water to create interesting beer with the particular color, flavor, and consistency that he or she desires. In this way, craft beer is a lot like wine. Though each beer starts with the same basic ingredients, the way in which they are processed and combined can make the greatest difference in the final product. Just as a winemaker chooses a particular type of grape, whether or not to include the skin, and which type of oak to use (if any), so the brewer makes decisions regarding the type or processing of the grain, the amount of hops, and the variety of yeast that goes into the beer. The results can vary as much as the difference between the lightest Sauvignon Blanc and the biggest Petite Syrah, or the sweetest Riesling and the driest Bordeaux. While a German-style Hefeweizen will generally be pale in color with a fruity and spicy flavor often characterized as banana- and clove-like, an Extra Special Bitter will be amber or copper-colored with medium to medium-high bitterness as the predominant taste. Thus, beers can range from the palest gold to the darkest chocolate in color, and can incorporate as wide a range of flavors and aromas. Flavors can include chocolate, caramel, coffee, smoke, cinnamon, clove, bubblegum, banana, apple, or even kiwi, just to name a few. Styles are just as varied and include Porter, Stout, Brown Ale, Pilsner, Blonde Ale, and the ever-popular India Pale Ale, among many, many others. Lucky for us, the craft beer industry continues to grow, meaning that every year brings even more great brews to sample. With the myriad options now available, I'd encourage you to find a beer shop or brewpub and try a few, both craft brew and imported, if you haven't. It will change the way you think of beer!

Some breweries to consider (products from these breweries are generally more widely available):
Anchor Brewing Company http://www.anchorbrewing.com/
Dogfish Head Brewery http://www.dogfish.com/
Rogue Brewery http://www.rogue.com/
Sierra Nevada Brewing Company http://www.sierranevada.com/