What I’m Drinking: Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare

About a month and a half ago, I had the good fortune of being invited to attend an afternoon wine tasting with Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. He was delightful, and it was fascinating to meet him and to hear his (often unique) ideas about grape growing, winemaking, and everything in between. We tasted many, many delicious wines, but, surprisingly (or maybe not), the 2011 Vin Gris de Cigare was the wine that resonated with me most. Randall Grahm spoke of it as a rosé that was made to be a rosé (as opposed to a rosé that is a byproduct of making red wine). Minimal skin contact is permitted, resulting in a paler color, retained acidity, and more elegance. While the strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors still popped, a slight minerality and lightness was notable. It instantly transported me 11 months back in time to a balcony in Aix-en-Provence, where Kevin and I quaffed a similar rosé while we enjoyed an impromptu picnic of charcuterie, cheese, strawberries, olives, and baguette, all procured from the market that morning.

Cheese at the market in Aix-en-Provence

And so began my summer 2012 obsession with Provence-style rosés. I currently have no less than five different varieties in my possession, as has been a running trend for the past month. The best I could do when it comes to purchasing the Vin Gris de Cigare locally right now was the 2010 vintage, which is juicy and lush, with ample acidity and that same mineral vein. It is a gorgeous pale salmon hue with both flavors and aromas of strawberry and raspberry, cherry, peach and apricot, zingy lemon, and just a touch of spice. At 12.8% alcohol, this blend of 71% grenache, 16% roussanne, 11% grenache blanc, and 2% mourvedre has body, but without being overly weighty. And at under $20 a bottle, it is a delicious wine that is also easy on the pocketbook, which is typical of Provence rosés as well. With the 100 degree temps that have been all-to-common in Chicago recently, these wines are the perfect thing.

Other wines that remind me of a sunny balcony in Provence:
2011 Commanderie de la Bargemone (Coteaux d’Aix en Provence)
2011 La Courtade L’Alycastre (Cotes de Provence)
2011 Chateau Margui Perle de Margui (Coteaux Varois en Provence)

Wine of the Week: Florent de Brie 2008 Rosé d'Anjou

As it is the end of August, I promise that this will be the last Rosé... But, I've saved the best for last! This has been my hands-down favorite this summer, warranting multiple purchases over the course of the season.

Like many of the other rosés I have tried this year, the Florent de Brie 2008 Rosé d'Anjou is a light, bright watermelon color, reminiscent of a watermelon candy. The aroma is sweet and fruity, with apple or pear and even some hints of watermelon, but also a bit of stone fruit. Peach, perhaps? The flavor is true to the nose. If you are looking for a bone dry rosé, I have to warn you that this is not it. But, if you can handle off-dry (which I personally think is delightful when properly chilled on a hot summer day), this is your wine! It is slightly tart, but juicy, and it bursts of fruit flavors. Most notably, I picked up strawberry, cherry, watermelon, and even a little apple. How is that for covering the spectrum?

I love this wine, which sells for around $13, and so might you! It is light, bright, and refreshing, with a short finish. Perfect for those lingering warm days we'll enjoy through September.

Wine of the Week: NV Bodegas Alconde Rosado Fresco

This week's wine is, of course, another rosé (I wasn't kidding about that rosé phase I mentioned). I went to my favorite wine shop last week to snatch up a bottle of my thus-far favorite rosé, and when they were (gasp!) out of it, I ended up with this instead. No worries - I am happy for the opportunity to try yet another recommended rosé.

The Bodegas Alconde Rosado Fresco hails from Navarra, Spain and, other than its frosty bottle and watermelon pink color, perhaps the most noticeable thing about it is the fizz! Yes, this wine is from the "Colección Semi-Seco" and sports some spritely bubbles. Catchy, but to return to my always underlying rosé question - Is it any good? The short answer is yes - at $11 a bottle, it has its place...and that place is on the patio.

This watermelon-hued, fizzy wine has strawberry aromas, with a touch of green apple and maybe some pear. Chilled to a proper "white" temperature, or even beyond, it presents as a bit more dry than it really is, with enough acid to be really refreshing. It is medium-bodied on the approach, light in the mid-palate (where it all but disappears), then long on the finish. And the taste? Strawberries again, with a touch of pink grapefruit bitterness and perhaps some Granny Smith apple. It's not the most complex wine ever, but fun enough on one of those 90 degree days we've been enjoying in this part of the country. Happy August...

Wine of the Week: Domaine Massamier La Mignarde 2008 Cuvée des Oliviers Rosé

I just wouldn't be doing this season justice if I didn't review a rosé (or several). Always looking for something a little bit different, I've been absolutely obsessed with the stuff this summer. Most of the rosés available in better wine shops these days are classified as dry, not sweet, and are far from the dreaded white zinfandel. But the real question is - are they any good? Since my last run-in with a pink wine also involved a coffee mug and my college roommates, I decided to take the time to get to know some real rosés and decide for myself.

Admittedly, this rosé is not my favorite among those I've tried, but it's my latest taste...and I have to start somewhere. Also, while I didn't love the flavor, I found this wine to be interestingly full bodied compared to other rosés I've had. While most rosés more closely resemble whites in substance, this one seems to be about as close to the middle ground between a red and a white as it gets.

A blend of 80% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Grenache, the Cuvée des Oliviers Rosé is a bright pink shade with an orange-ish hue, and is almost coral in color. The aromas are of tart berries - the bottle mentioned red currants and strawberries, but I also picked up a distinct raspberry aroma, along with floral undertones and, frankly, some earthiness. The taste is bold - sour strawberry with a spicy hot, lemon-zesty component. And, of course, the wine is substantial. It has a hefty weight on the mid-palate, and a very long finish. And, of course, it's dry.

At about $12 a bottle, this wine is another one to try if you're looking for something very different. Stayed tuned for more rosés!