Wine of the Week: Vina Carmen Carmenere Rapel Valley 2006

I chose to profile this week's wine, the 2006 Carmen Carmenere from the Vina Carmen winery in Chile, for two reasons. First, it retails for under $10, which is always appreciated. Secondly, it is a wine under $10 that is actually a little bit interesting and definitely something different.

Dark red (almost purple) in color, the 2006 Carmen Carmenere releases aromas of raspberry, which are accented by spicy, almost fiery, herbal background notes, reminiscent of chili peppers. The taste is bold, with the fruit coming through on the approach and the mid-palate, and a lingering spicy black pepper finish following. I found the fruit flavors to be mainly raspberry and black cherry. The most striking aspect of this wine's flavor to me, though, is the hard-to-miss green pepper woven throughout. That green pepper flavor is not always a desireable characteristic, but it seems to work here, and while it's not something I would like to have every day, it is an interesting departure from the usual earthy red. This wine is worth a try if you're looking for something different, but still inexpensive.

Veronica's Potato Salad

I am aware that today's recipe requires a bit of suspended disbelief for most people. So, I have to ask you, Dear Reader, to hang in there with me. I promise - This is a great dish, and one I have made over and over, which is why I am very excited to share it with you!

Yesterday's Father's Day holiday reminded me again of Giada De Laurentiis' recipe for Veronica's Potato Salad. If I remember correctly, the recipe was Giada's mother, Veronica De Laurentiis', recipe (hence the name). How fitting, then, that the first guests that I ever served it to were my own parents, for a Father's Day picnic several years ago. I have to admit that I've made a few adjustments to the recipe, but the main "suspended disbelief" ingredient remains intact in my version - hot dogs!

As usual, the key to this simple recipe is choosing quality ingredients. As you might imagine, that holds particularly true for the hot dogs, which are not camouflaged in any way in the final product. I generally choose a kosher all-beef variety (tonight I used Hebrew National Beef Franks), but you could use any type that you find exceptionally tasty. I think it would be interesting to try a chicken sausage in this recipe too, for instance. Also, Giada's version calls for regular russet potatoes with the skin removed, but I've found that I like to use a more waxy variety of "new" potato, like a redskin or a yukon gold, and leave the skin on. Finally, in a pinch, or if you just don't like it, the basil isn't essential. The parsley in this recipe really does the heavy lifting of giving it that aspect of freshness, and sometimes that's all I use. This seven ingredient mayo-free and mediterranean-inspired version of a classic picnic staple is truly worth suspending your disbelief!

The recipe for Veronica's Potato Salad can be found at www.foodnetwork.com.

Wine of the Week: Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2007 & 2008

Since Malbec was my wine of choice for much of late 2007 and early 2008, I thought it would only be appropriate to review one. After all, Malbec is the quintessential value wine these days, often coming in at the under $20 price-point while still offering a reasonably rich and complex wine experience. I know I am in good company in having an affinity for it.

A couple of weeks ago, I was pleasantly surprised by the Altos Las Hormigas 2007 Malbec. I was so impressed with it, in fact, that I went back to the store to get a second bottle. But when I got there, I found not the 2007, but the 2008 vintage. It seemed like a great opportunity to compare, so I brought a bottle of the 2008 home.

Let me start by saying that both vintages are good. I do favor the 2007 slightly, but at around $13, the 2008 is still a well-worthy wine. Both wines are dark purple to ruby in color, and they share some aromas, but yet have subtle differences. My 2007 tasting notes included black cherry, raspberry, cassis, fig (or something similarly sweet), and even a slightly medicinal note. The 2008, however, still had the black cherry and raspberry, but they were rounded out by a floral scent and some spice (the winery's tasting notes say violet and nutmeg, but I'll leave that up to you).

In terms of taste, the 2007 was positively juicy, with blackberry and black cherry flavors, and just a hint of cocoa. The 2008 wasn't as juicy, but still had a strong blackberry flavor and an undeniable blueberry aspect. Instead of cocoa, the 2008 tasted of spice.

The Altos Las Hormigas Malbec is a full-bodied, structured wine, regardless of the vintage. Tannins are prominent from the mid-palate through the long finish to the end. I found these both to be great wines, best enjoyed immediately upon opening. Drink them right away - they don't retain their bold flavors overnight.

Balsamic Vinaigrette

Today's picture includes mustard - not because mustard is the topic of the post, but rather because it is the less obvious of the two ingredients used to make this incredibly simple vinaigrette.

I've already told you about my conversion to do-it-yourself salad dressing...and I've waxed poetic about a good balsamic vinegar. Now I'm putting the two topics together with this quick recipe for a balsamic vinaigrette. All that's needed is a quality balsamic vinegar and a jar of Dijon mustard...and maybe some exceptional olive oil. That's it! This balsamic vinaigrette will remind you why you bought that fancy bottle (as if you needed reminding!).

Simple Balsamic Vinaigrette

1 Part Dijon Mustard
3 Parts Balsamic Vinegar
1/2 Part Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Optional)

Whisk the Dijon and balsamic vinegar together in a bowl until smooth. Taste and adjust as necessary. For added richness, whisk in the olive oil. Serve immediately or refrigerate before use.

Profile: Plantains

I first fell in love with plantains during a trip to San Pedro Sula, Honduras. Our gorgeous hotel was in an exclusive neighborhood (notably, it was also surrounded by iron bars and well-armed guards, but nevertheless) and it served up a truly bountiful spread every morning for our early-AM meal. It was during one of those almost embarrassingly plentiful breakfasts that I had my first plantain tamale. I was immediately hooked.

Fortunately for me, plantains are available in many U.S. supermarkets. They are usually sold when they are just turning yellow, giving them a slightly dirty appearance. They are often located near the bananas, their size and lack of bunching distinguishing them from their smaller, sweeter cousins. Plantains can be eaten at any stage of ripeness - green, yellow, or even black. In fact, to use a plantain in a sweet application requires allowing it to turn almost completely black, well beyond the point where a standard supermarket banana would be considered edible. All but the most ripe plantains must be cooked to be enjoyed.

Though musa paradisiaca is, as it appears to be, a type of banana, I find that it is better to think of the plantain more like a potato. Plantains can be incorporated into sweet dishes, and they often are used that way, but only when overripe. And even then, the plantain does not reach the natural sweetness of the Cavendish bananas (also known as dessert bananas) that line U.S. supermarket shelves. Rather, plantains are very starchy and (depending upon their level of ripeness) not very sweet. When green, they are not sweet at all, but still very filling. Thus, in many cultures the plantain really does function like a potato - an inexpensive, and important, source of nutritious calories.

True to its starchy character, the plantain can be prepared in many ways. It can be boiled, steamed, fried, sauteed, grilled, even mashed. One of the most well-known preparations of plantains are tostones, which are twice-fried "patties" similar to chips. I have personally had plantains in many ways, and have gone to great lengths to enjoy them in my cooking (Most memorably in Plantain Tamales with Molasses Butter from Bobby Flay's From My Kitchen To Your Table, which were good, but well beyond my usual "keep it simple" routine!). My favorite preparation is just to saute them, though, like in Jack Bishop's Caribbean Black Beans with Sauteed Plantains from A Year in a Vegetarian Kitchen.

If you haven't already, it's well worth it to discover this dietary staple of so many tropical regions. Just remember that many a plantain novice has been disappointed when the plantain wasn't what they expected, so if you are trying plantains for the first time, try to ignore their banana resemblance as much as you possibly can!

This Tyler Florence recipe is just what I have in mind for an easy plantain preparation. One thing to note that Tyler doesn't mention: A plantain can't be peeled like a supermarket banana. Cut the plantain with the skin on, then score the skin and remove it in sections.

Tyler Florence's recipe for Caramelized Plantains "Plantanos al Caldero" can be found at foodnetwork.com

Wine of the Week: Stag's Leap 2005 Napa Valley Petite Syrah

If this wine's label strikes you as a bit more fancy than usual, I'll provide fair warning that your instincts are correct. This bottle checks in well above my usual $20 price cap. In fact, the reason I purchased it at all was because, after enjoying this wine at the extravagant restaurant price during a friend's birthday dinner several months ago, I was thrilled to find it at Trader Joe's for around $33. I had to pick it up.

Not being one to wait for the ever-elusive perfect occasion to open a special bottle, I left this one in the cellar only until the moment felt right. And that moment was a casual Saturday evening at home with Kevin just this past weekend. We opened it late in the evening and each had a generous glass - the perfect opportunity to truly enjoy and appreciate a good wine.

The 2005 Napa Valley Petite Syrah has an extremely dark ruby hue, and abounding aromas. I picked up smoky leather notes right away, followed by dark purple fruits - blackberry and plum - and also some cassis. There was a particular sweetness to the scent as well, perhaps a vanilla, and floral undertones. Cocoa was the last scent that I picked up, but it is not to be underestimated.

If you like big California wines, this wine is for you. It is full-bodied, with prominent tannins and a long finish, but is still surprisingly well-balanced. Flavors are both juicy and savory, with the same plum, blackberry, and cassis as on the nose, but also including smoky and spicy elements as well. The finish is slightly bitter. I called it medicinal, but others have likened it to bitter chocolate, which is probably a more appealing description! Overall, this wine is very good, though too pricey to be an everyday wine for me. Perhaps next time I will spring for it on only a very special occasion - or, better yet, find a $20-and-under "stand in"!

Food Read: In Defense of Food

Michael Pollan is at it again. Or maybe I should say that I'm at it again - buying into his latest food-centric hypothesis with exceptional fervor. Pollan has been in the media again recently, on a small (or perhaps large, as I personally have seen several interviews with him) junket for the release of the paperback version of his most recent book, In Defense of Food. I used the availability of the less pricey paperback as my excuse to finally pick up my own copy, and have been plowing through the slim read at a steady pace. In Defense of Food is somewhat of a follow-up to the much-heralded The Omnivore's Dilemma, and I am glad that I had the discipline to force myself to read Omnivore before picking up Defense. While In Defense of Food does stand on its own, it is really made so much richer by the context that The Omnivore's Dilemma provides. It is easier, for instance, to comprehend why modern "industrialized" fruits and vegetables may contain fewer nutrients if you have read the more full and detailed description of how exactly those fruits and vegetables are produced.

In Defense of Food addresses modern American nutrition (or rather, "nutritionism") in the same way The Omnivore's Dilemma addressed modern American food production - by breaking it open and providing a solid basis for questioning the very basic premises that Americans generally take for granted. Where exactly did the U.S. government's nutritional guidelines come from? How have those guidelines been influenced by industry versus by science? And when they are influenced by science, how much do those scientists really know about how food works in our bodies? According to Pollan's research, the answer to the last question seems to be surprisingly little.

Which leads to the main premise of Pollan's argument - that the current approach to nutrition in the United States, generally centered around individual macro- and now micro-nutrients, ignores the likely very important larger picture surrounding nutrition. Pollan suggests, rather convincingly, that what makes many traditional diets successful (think of the French or Mediterranean diets, for example) is not so much a matter of a particular food or nutrient, but rather the combination of foods and nutrients eaten together. Further, he argues that how those foods are eaten, the cultural norms that have grown up around them, plays an integral part in the healthfulness of the diet as well. It's not a surprise that the French tend to be thinner than their U.S. counterparts when you take into account a culture of smaller portions and a tendency against second helpings. In the meantime, the so-called scientific approach to eating in the U.S. has resulted not in a healthier population, but rather has coincided with an increased prevelance of obesity and "diseases of civilization", such as diabetes and heart disease.

Though Pollan does, as he admits, sometimes fall back on "nutritionism" to prove his point, his overall argument makes sense, and is hard to refute based on the plethora of evidence he provides. After poking holes in almost every nutritional guideline presented in the past fifty years, Pollan does not leave us with nothing, though. The final section of the book contains some very straightforward, if general, guidelines for eating. These guidelines fall under Pollan's general rules of "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.", and are the most straightforward, common sense set of nutritional guidelines I've encountered to date. As Pollan has effectively changed my thinking about food shopping, so now he has similarly affected my thinking about food eating. I will surely keep his guidelines in mind when making food choices in the future. For that reason, I definitely consider In Defense of Food a worthy read.

Pita Sandwich with Cucumber and Hummus

During lunch with a colleague last week, the conversation turned to cucumbers (What can I say? I love to eat food. I love to talk about food. I love to talk about food while I eat food...). Specifically, the discussion centered around cucumbers as a sandwich ingredient, and a most divine sandwich ingredient at that. Thoughtfully, I pondered my tuna-with-cucumber-and-sprouts on French bread. What is it about a cucumber that makes it such a wonderful addition to a sandwich? And, since a few slices of cucumber can literally transform a sandwich, why isn't its use as a topper more ubiquitous?

I can't answer the second question. But, since my forays into the world of cucumber-laden sandwiches were born not from a search for flavor, but rather from a more practical place, I can attempt a response to the first. A cucumber on a sandwich functions much like lettuce - crunchy and refreshing, with an unmistakable flavor that says "veggie". But unlike lettuce, the cucumber has more of all of this - more of a structured crunch, more of a refreshing sensation, more of that vegetal "green-ness". Which gets to why I started putting cucumbers on my sandwiches... Quite simply, they were a great replacement for wilt-prone lettuce when I was shopping for one! The pita sandwich below was, and still is, one of my staples in a pinch and highlights the cucumber nicely.


Pita Sandwich with Cucumber and Hummus
(makes 2)

1 medium-sized pita, halved crosswise to form two pockets
1/4 english cucumber (about 4 inches), sliced thin
1 medium vine tomato
2 oz. pepper jack cheese, sliced (you can also use a good, creamy feta - I love Trader Joe's brand)
4 T roasted red pepper hummus*

Carefully open each pita half and spread the hummus evenly around the inside of the pocket. Arrange the cheese slices along one side of the pocket, using the hummus to keep them in place. Do the same with the cucumber slices on the other side of the pocket. Slice the tomato and place the slices between the cheese and cucumber to complete the sandwich.

*Of course, there is no reason a traditional hummus wouldn't work in this sandwich just as well, as would a different flavor. I like to use jalapeno hummus when I am craving even more of a "kick".