Profile: Mexican Oregano

The Michigan sweet corn is finally starting to come in, and I am excited to say that I bought my first few ears of the season at the farmers' market last week. There are so many reasons to be enthusiastic about the arrival of this late summer farm icon, beginning with a virtual return to the backyard garden of my childhood and perhaps ending with a fantastic recipe for corn chowder that I look forward to making (and posting) within the next few weeks. Today, though, I am most enthusiastic about the opportunity it provides me to write not about corn, but about Mexican oregano.

I first became aware of Mexican oregano a few years ago, after I received a cookbook filled with Mexican recipes, many of which, I found, called for Mexican oregano. I had never heard of Mexican oregano and wondered, "Can't I just use the Mediterranean stuff that's growing in my window box?", as I searched store after store for the elusive herb, coming up empty every time. After I finally stumbled across some Mexican oregano at a tiny (but positively heavenly) spice shop in, of all places, the quaint beachtown of Saugatuck, Michigan, I found out that the answer to that question is simply, "No!"

While it is used culinarily in similar ways as Mediterranean oregano (hence the name), the Mexican oregano plant is actually not even a member of the Origanum genus, to which most of the popular Mediterranean oregano varieties belong. While Origanum belongs to the mint family, the Mexican oregano or Lippia graveolens plant is more closely related to lemon verbena and belongs to the verbena family. And while both Mediterranean and Mexican oregano have a similar earthy, musky aroma and taste, the scent and flavor of Mexican oregano is certainly distinct.

Interestingly, I find that Mexican oregano smells sweeter, lighter, and even more floral than the more woody, tangy, and greener-scented Mediterranean oregano stored in my spice rack and growing on my front porch. Yet, in flavor, the Mexican variety tends to be bolder, spicier, and more, well, Mexican in its appeal. It can hold up to spicy foods, particularly sauces and marinades, and often bursts through in the final product, even despite the comparatively sparing quantities called for in the recipe. It's a beautiful flavor not to be missed, and though I do love it in a good pepper-based marinade, I prefer to highlight its unique taste in an even simpler preparation: Enter the fresh corn.

I love this "recipe" (I use the term loosely) for a few reasons. First, as mentioned, it's a great showcase for an interesting herb. Secondly, it's a great side dish for any meal that contains Mexican, Southwestern, or even South American flavors. Third, because carmelization is encouraged, it doesn't require a lot of attention during cooking. And if you can't find Mexican oregano at a store near you, never fear - see my note below for online resources.

Pan Toasted Corn with Mexican Oregano
(serves 4 as a side dish)

4 ears fresh corn
2 tsp olive oil
1 tsp Mexican oregano
Salt
2 pats butter

Standing one ear of the corn on end in a pie plate or shallow bowl, use a chef's knife to cut the kernels from the cob, cutting down toward the plate/bowl and rotating the cob before each cut until all of the kernels are removed. Repeat for the other three ears.

Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet on medium heat until it flows easily when the pan is tilted. Add the corn to the pan, tossing it to partially coat the kernels with the oil, then spreading them out so as many of the corn kernels as possible are in contact with the pan. Heat for about eight minutes, stirring only three or four times, and allowing some of the kernels to brown.

Stir in the Mexican oregano and salt to taste. Cook for one more minute before adding the butter and allowing it to melt over the corn. Stir one last time, then serve.

Mexican oregano can be found online at Spice Merchants (my local source) and at Penzeys Spices. Since it is very light, an ounce should be plenty to satisfy your needs!