Profile: Balsamic Vinegar

I am writing about balsamic vinegar today because it would be a shame for anyone to think that the extent of balsamic vinegar ends with $4 brown acid-water on the grocery store shelf. If it did, the term "Vinegar Tasting" surely would not exist. But as it is, perfectly reasonable people are known to taste, and enjoy, balsamic vinegar straight from a spoon or even a small glass. Why? Because true balsamic vinegar is a magically sweet, tart, and complex condiment made with very specific ingredients, in a very specific place, and according to a very particular centuries-old process.

True balsamic vinegar is strictly controlled by Italian law and can only come from one of two Italian cities, Modena or Reggio Emilia. Known as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (or di Reggio Emilia), this vinegar is made from the juice (or must) of the white Trebbiano grape, which has been boiled down and aged in various wooden barrels for a minimum of twelve years, then has been approved by master tasters. The process produces a condiment as thick as syrup and amazingly complex - not only sweet and sour, but also containing flavors often ascribed to wine - stewed fruit, musk, and tobacco, for example. That said, there is a 'catch'. As you might guess, something requiring such an artisan (and lengthy - balsamic vinegars can be aged for 50 years or more) process isn't always easy to come by. And if you do, it's not exactly cheap.

Fortunately, something between the tradizionale and the aforementioned brown acid-water does exist. That "something", or rather somethings, are in the form of Aceto Balsamico Condimento or even Aceto Balsamico di Modena ("Industriale" Balsamic).

Condimento has been made according to the traditional process, but for the exception of one variable. Thus, it does not qualify for consortium approval, perhaps because it has not been aged for twelve years, or because it has not been aged in the proper types of wood, or even just because it was made outside the boundaries of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Condimento can still be pricey, but is considered to offer a good value because it is made in a style similar to the tradizionale, but can be obtained at perhaps half the cost.

Possessing a bit of a tricky name, Aceto Balsamico di Modena is really "cheater" balsamic, made using grape must, but possibly also red wine vinegar, sugar or a quick caramelization process, and/or wood chips. To be called balsamic at all, these need to be aged at least three years. While there is no guarantee that an Industriale will be good, many are, and it is worth one's while to seek out a decent bottle, which will be in roughly the $10 to $20 price range. Buy it, and it will become a kitchen staple, but will still last a long time.

And the $4 brown acid-water? That's imitation balsamic, most likely cider vinegar with some caramel coloring added. At that price point, it can't possible be balsamic!

Excursion: Le Petit Zinc

On a tip from Detroit's HOUR Magazine, I recently visited Le Petit Zinc, a new-ish cafe in Detroit. Venturing into an unfamiliar area, I found Le Petit Zinc in the most unexpected building in a most unexpected neighborhood - It inhabits part of a squat brick building on the corner of Trumbull and Howard in the quiet and aptly named West Side Industrial neighborhood, on the south edge of Corktown. Blink and you might miss the painted sign clueing you in...

The entrance to Le Petit Zinc is off a fenced-in courtyard, complete with a gurgling and tiered stone fountain and mismatched tables and chairs. The patio currently serves as overflow and will, no doubt, be hopping as the weather continues to warm. The inside seats only around 30 - about 10 at the Paris-inspired zinc bar, and 20 or so at wooden tables with simple and sturdy wooden chairs. The decor is lively and slightly bohemian, with bright yellow walls, floor length green velvet drapes, and french-inspired murals on the walls. Of course, a flat screen TV in an upper corner broadcasts the soccer (or is that football?) game.

Water is served in wine bottles and coffee in sturdy ceramic cups with tiny spoons. One can watch chef/owner Charles Sorel and two or three others preparing the food just behind the bar. And the menu? French favorites - salads, baguette sandwiches, and crepes, both sweet and savory. You can even order ratatouille! I had the savory Fromage de Chevre et Epinards (spinach and goat cheese) Crepe. It was served with a mixed green salad, as all Le Petit Zinc's savory crepes are, and it was delicious. The crepe itself was light, and the filling did not rely too heavily on the goat cheese, but was accented with a generous quantity of pine nuts. And, of course, the coffee was rich, always a must at breakfast or brunch.

In this recession time, I would be remiss not to at least touch on the cost, which is, I have to say, surprisingly reasonable. My crepe was $6.75 and my coffee $2 (It's worth it - trust me), for a total bill of under $10 in all, quite a steal these days for food so fresh and fantastic.

If you are in the Detroit area, don't miss Le Petit Zinc. It is easy to get to (just off the Lodge), and even easier to appreciate as a hidden gem of Detroit.

Chicken with Black Pepper & Lime Marinade

My dear friend Anna's dad once saved our college dinner party by gracing us with this recipe, and I have loved it ever since. It's hard not to love a recipe that is not only incredibly simple and a flash to prepare, but also reminds one of visits to Mexico, the Caribbean, and Key West. This version may differ slightly from the original, but the spirit is the same. Tonight I served this chicken with fresh pico de gallo and Mexican pan-toasted corn, but I've also served it with garlicky spinach and sweet potato oven fries with chipotle date chutney for a more Caribbean feel.

Chicken with Black Pepper & Lime Marinade

4 chicken breasts

1/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (about 3 or 4 limes)

2/3 cup olive oil

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Combine the lime juice, olive oil, and black pepper in a small bowl using a wire whisk or fork. Pour enough marinade into a glass baking dish to cover the bottom of the dish, then add the chicken to the dish. Add the rest of the marinade to the dish, making sure to coat each chicken breast. Cover the dish and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, but not more than one hour.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the chicken from the glass baking dish and place on a baking sheet. Bake until done, 20 to 40 minutes, depending upon the size of the chicken breast. Serve immediately.

Wine of the Week: 2004 Taz Pinot Gris, Santa Barbara

I know that I just wrote about margaritas, and now here I am writing about a wine in my next post, but I just couldn't wait to share this really interesting pick! The 2004 Taz Pinot Gris is around $15-$20 (depending upon where you live), so it is at the top of my usual $20-and-under price range, but I think it is a great wine, particularly for a special occasion that is calling for something a little more interesting. I was lucky enough to attend a tasting of Taz Vineyards wines a couple of months ago, and found this wine to be the most interesting of the wines we tasted, though all of the wines I had from this small-ish Santa Barbara County winery were good.

The 2004 Pinot Gris is a golden straw color, with aromas of lime and tropical fruit (the tasting notes mentioned lichee, but I couldn't pick that out in particular). It is a full-bodied, almost creamy wine, with a medium to long finish. The taste is exactly what you might expect based on the nose - also tropical. Upon first sip, I was greeted with the overwhelming taste of pineapple, which was followed by strong guava flavors, combined with bright green pear. This wine is pleasantly balanced and uniquely flavored - the perfect thing to try the next time you are looking for a white that is a little bit different.

Classic Margarita

I have been waiting literally all year to write about margaritas. Not because I love them, though I do, but because I think it is important for everyone to know that a good margarita has absolutely nothing to do with margarita mix. What's more, a margarita made without mix is not any more difficult or complicated to make than one that uses it. All that's needed is a good silver tequila, triple sec (or Grand Marnier or blue curacao - something orange flavored), and limes. That's it. It's important to note that the word "good" before the tequila is key. Since a classic margarita highlights, rather than obliterates, the tequila flavor, choosing a tequila worthy of highlighting has a huge impact on the results.

Now, to get down to business... I like to use a 2:1:1 ratio, meaning two parts tequila, one part triple sec, and one part lime juice. Generally my "parts" are just ounces, combined and alway served on the rocks (never blended). The ice adds a little bit of volume, and helps to mellow the drink out a bit, since 3 ounces of liquor/liqueur makes for a drink with a kick! Remember to sip slowly - taking the time to enjoy the subtleties of the drink's flavor is the point, after all. If you must, it's easy to salt the rim of your glass (the less high-quality your tequila, the more likely it is that you will want to take this step). Just pour some sea salt onto a small plate, run a lime wedge around the edge of the glass, and dip the rim of the glass into the salt.

I promise that once you've made this classic margarita for yourself, you'll never consider using store-bought mix again!