Wine of the Week: NV Bodegas Alconde Rosado Fresco

This week's wine is, of course, another rosé (I wasn't kidding about that rosé phase I mentioned). I went to my favorite wine shop last week to snatch up a bottle of my thus-far favorite rosé, and when they were (gasp!) out of it, I ended up with this instead. No worries - I am happy for the opportunity to try yet another recommended rosé.

The Bodegas Alconde Rosado Fresco hails from Navarra, Spain and, other than its frosty bottle and watermelon pink color, perhaps the most noticeable thing about it is the fizz! Yes, this wine is from the "Colección Semi-Seco" and sports some spritely bubbles. Catchy, but to return to my always underlying rosé question - Is it any good? The short answer is yes - at $11 a bottle, it has its place...and that place is on the patio.

This watermelon-hued, fizzy wine has strawberry aromas, with a touch of green apple and maybe some pear. Chilled to a proper "white" temperature, or even beyond, it presents as a bit more dry than it really is, with enough acid to be really refreshing. It is medium-bodied on the approach, light in the mid-palate (where it all but disappears), then long on the finish. And the taste? Strawberries again, with a touch of pink grapefruit bitterness and perhaps some Granny Smith apple. It's not the most complex wine ever, but fun enough on one of those 90 degree days we've been enjoying in this part of the country. Happy August...

Profile: Mexican Oregano

The Michigan sweet corn is finally starting to come in, and I am excited to say that I bought my first few ears of the season at the farmers' market last week. There are so many reasons to be enthusiastic about the arrival of this late summer farm icon, beginning with a virtual return to the backyard garden of my childhood and perhaps ending with a fantastic recipe for corn chowder that I look forward to making (and posting) within the next few weeks. Today, though, I am most enthusiastic about the opportunity it provides me to write not about corn, but about Mexican oregano.

I first became aware of Mexican oregano a few years ago, after I received a cookbook filled with Mexican recipes, many of which, I found, called for Mexican oregano. I had never heard of Mexican oregano and wondered, "Can't I just use the Mediterranean stuff that's growing in my window box?", as I searched store after store for the elusive herb, coming up empty every time. After I finally stumbled across some Mexican oregano at a tiny (but positively heavenly) spice shop in, of all places, the quaint beachtown of Saugatuck, Michigan, I found out that the answer to that question is simply, "No!"

While it is used culinarily in similar ways as Mediterranean oregano (hence the name), the Mexican oregano plant is actually not even a member of the Origanum genus, to which most of the popular Mediterranean oregano varieties belong. While Origanum belongs to the mint family, the Mexican oregano or Lippia graveolens plant is more closely related to lemon verbena and belongs to the verbena family. And while both Mediterranean and Mexican oregano have a similar earthy, musky aroma and taste, the scent and flavor of Mexican oregano is certainly distinct.

Interestingly, I find that Mexican oregano smells sweeter, lighter, and even more floral than the more woody, tangy, and greener-scented Mediterranean oregano stored in my spice rack and growing on my front porch. Yet, in flavor, the Mexican variety tends to be bolder, spicier, and more, well, Mexican in its appeal. It can hold up to spicy foods, particularly sauces and marinades, and often bursts through in the final product, even despite the comparatively sparing quantities called for in the recipe. It's a beautiful flavor not to be missed, and though I do love it in a good pepper-based marinade, I prefer to highlight its unique taste in an even simpler preparation: Enter the fresh corn.

I love this "recipe" (I use the term loosely) for a few reasons. First, as mentioned, it's a great showcase for an interesting herb. Secondly, it's a great side dish for any meal that contains Mexican, Southwestern, or even South American flavors. Third, because carmelization is encouraged, it doesn't require a lot of attention during cooking. And if you can't find Mexican oregano at a store near you, never fear - see my note below for online resources.

Pan Toasted Corn with Mexican Oregano
(serves 4 as a side dish)

4 ears fresh corn
2 tsp olive oil
1 tsp Mexican oregano
Salt
2 pats butter

Standing one ear of the corn on end in a pie plate or shallow bowl, use a chef's knife to cut the kernels from the cob, cutting down toward the plate/bowl and rotating the cob before each cut until all of the kernels are removed. Repeat for the other three ears.

Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet on medium heat until it flows easily when the pan is tilted. Add the corn to the pan, tossing it to partially coat the kernels with the oil, then spreading them out so as many of the corn kernels as possible are in contact with the pan. Heat for about eight minutes, stirring only three or four times, and allowing some of the kernels to brown.

Stir in the Mexican oregano and salt to taste. Cook for one more minute before adding the butter and allowing it to melt over the corn. Stir one last time, then serve.

Mexican oregano can be found online at Spice Merchants (my local source) and at Penzeys Spices. Since it is very light, an ounce should be plenty to satisfy your needs!

Wine of the Week: Domaine Massamier La Mignarde 2008 Cuvée des Oliviers Rosé

I just wouldn't be doing this season justice if I didn't review a rosé (or several). Always looking for something a little bit different, I've been absolutely obsessed with the stuff this summer. Most of the rosés available in better wine shops these days are classified as dry, not sweet, and are far from the dreaded white zinfandel. But the real question is - are they any good? Since my last run-in with a pink wine also involved a coffee mug and my college roommates, I decided to take the time to get to know some real rosés and decide for myself.

Admittedly, this rosé is not my favorite among those I've tried, but it's my latest taste...and I have to start somewhere. Also, while I didn't love the flavor, I found this wine to be interestingly full bodied compared to other rosés I've had. While most rosés more closely resemble whites in substance, this one seems to be about as close to the middle ground between a red and a white as it gets.

A blend of 80% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Grenache, the Cuvée des Oliviers Rosé is a bright pink shade with an orange-ish hue, and is almost coral in color. The aromas are of tart berries - the bottle mentioned red currants and strawberries, but I also picked up a distinct raspberry aroma, along with floral undertones and, frankly, some earthiness. The taste is bold - sour strawberry with a spicy hot, lemon-zesty component. And, of course, the wine is substantial. It has a hefty weight on the mid-palate, and a very long finish. And, of course, it's dry.

At about $12 a bottle, this wine is another one to try if you're looking for something very different. Stayed tuned for more rosés!

Chipotle Lime Plantain Tacos

I improvised these plantain tacos a few weeks ago on a night when Kevin and I were short on time (and ingredients) before a Saturday night out with friends. They were such a great meatless meal, I decided to incorporate them into my repertoire as a quick weeknight dinner. In addition to the interesting Mexican- and Central American-inspired flavors, I like that most of the ingredients in these are sturdy enough for me to keep them on hand until a day or two before market day, when most of my fresh produce is long gone. Thankfully, the one ingredient that is not as sturdy (cilantro) grows in my garden.

Chipotle Lime Plantain Tacos
(recipe serves 2)

4 small corn tortillas (5 or 6 in. diameter)
4 tsp plus 1 T vegetable oil
4 T minced white onion
2 T minced cilantro
juice of 1/2 lime
salt
1 partially black plantain
1/8 tsp chipotle chile powder
4 avocado slices

Heat 1 tsp vegetable oil in a small frying pan at medium heat. Add one corn tortilla and fry until just slightly crispy but still pliable, about 30 seconds per side. Repeat with the other three tortillas, stacking each on a plate between paper towels as it is done. Set the finished tortillas aside.

Combine onion, cilantro, and lime in a small bowl. Salt to taste, then set aside.

Peel the plantain and cut into 3/4 inch cubes. Heat 1 T vegetable oil in the small frying pan to medium heat. Add the plantain cubes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they turn golden on all sides, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle on the chipotle powder and cook for 1 more minute, stirring frequently. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the plantains to a plate. Allow the plantains to cool slightly.

Place two tortillas on each plate, and separate the plantain cubes evenly among the four tortillas. Spoon the onion/cilantro/lime mixture onto each taco, then add an avocado slice to each to finish.

Note: If the plantain is more than partially black, the tacos may be a bit on the rich side. Add additional lime juice or even a teaspoon of fresh salsa to even them back out.

Wine of the Week: GioCato Pinot Grigio 2008

This week's wine is a very interesting Pinot Grigio from Slovenia - another good recommendation from my local wine shop. I was looking for a summertime white that would harmonize well with a light Italian meal and was assured that this wine would fit the bill. I am happy to report that while I sometimes personally find Pinot Grigio to be a bit lacking in interest, this particular one is actually anything but.

A relatively young wine, it displays a very light, almost green straw hue, and an ever so slight effervescence. The aroma is pear and apple, but also sweet and tropical. Its tastes follow suit, with prominent pear and stone fruit flavors balanced by the crisp acidity of lemon and some mineral undertones.

This is a well-balanced wine, that is less light-bodied than many other Pinot Grigios that I have had. It is acidic on the finish, which is substantial for a white. All in all, I found it to be well worth its $11 price tag.